If it wasn’t for Antoine Abbatucci, most of the grapes now grown by Jean-Charles, Antoine’s son, may not exist. In the 1960s, local Corsican grapes were being rapidly replaced by international competitors. Antoine was charged with preserving these varieties and, using a hectare of land, created an ampelographic station and saved the fate of 18 of them.
When Jean-Charles took over in 2000 he converted the estate to biodynamic. He then began to graft some of these old varieties onto their existing vines. Today, 14 of those varieties can be found at Domaine Abbatucci, situated in the Taravo Valley of Ajaccio, the capital of Corsica. The estate produces around 1,500 bottles of each type of wine, so you’ll have to hurry if you want to experience the unique qualities of grapes that were raised from the dead.
Listen to Jean-Charles on Interpreting Wine by Lawrence Francis.